What measurements/tension to sew elastic onto lingerie
I’ve written about elastic tension before on here.
Applying elastic tension onto briefs
But I thought I would show you examples of actual elastic sewn onto lingerie and what I start with.
I know that some sewers like to cut the elastics before they sew and some like to sew elastic as they go along. There are fors and against for both so it’s just a personal preference.
If I’m making lingerie for the first time, I go on sewing intuitively, pulling the elastic as I go along, I do have marks on my sewing machine though, that I pull the elastic to as I sew. The reason I do this, is that for me it’s a lot quicker, and I can adjust the tension/stretch of the elastic rather that having it pre-cut.
Then once I’ve fitted the lingerie I can adjust the tension of the elastic, for example at the underarm of the bra is usually applied tighter than the top of the wing, if you don’t do this, depending on your underarm curve you can see whether you need to pull the elastic tighter there or not.
So, on legs of the briefs the elastic naturally looks a different tension than the curve of the waist, even if the same tension as been applied.
So how much do I pull the elastic by? On the brief approximately from the foot plate I pull the elastic 7mm. This usually gives a 8% reduction in the elastic (approx). Then for the bra, I usually pull the elastic 5mm this then gives me an approx 6% reduction.
This seems to work really well for the styles I sew (stretch styles).
In the images below the neckline measured 37.3 before elastic, and measured 33.7cm when elastic was applied so giving it a reduction of approx 6%
Legs measured 68cm (right the way around) before elastic, and measured 63cm when elastic was applied. giving a 8% reduction.
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