What comes first the spec or the sample?

A bit like the chicken and the egg, which come first the specification sheet or the sample? There is no correct answer, but I hope a few things become clearer after reading.

A ‘spec sheet’ for those not knowing, is a sheet which has ‘POM’ (points of measurement) of the lingerie garment over every size you wish to produce.

For example if your 1/2 waist measurement is 30cm on a Medium then it will show 32.5cm for the large. A spec sheet is important for the factory to know what size your finished garments finish at so it’s consistent over all the sizes.

If you are starting a brand it may important to get your spec sheet done, before approaching a factory, but here lies the problem, getting a full spec sheet done before getting a sample done, may mean having to do the spec sheet twice because after you’ve fitted the garment and the pattern needs changing so does the whole spec across all the sizes. However providing no spec may mean the factory won’t achieve the look you want.

So what to do?

You have a couple of choices, you could provide a detailed look sheet for your factory/sample machinist, for example - when I was unsure of the measurements if the lingerie was a new style I would give rough measurements or details such as : create a flat look or ensure cups under-band isn’t too gathered - cups must lie flat and not fold around to the back.

Something which the sample, machinist can work towards will help you and be less costly as you have given a guide what you are looking for. Then after the garment was made I took measurements and entered them on to a spec sheet. Then after fits were done, patterns made, samples re-sampled I altered the spec.

If you have a rough idea of the measurements, then enter just the sample size measurements onto the spec sheet, but put on the spec that the measurements are a guide only. It can be very hard to for a sample machinist to achieve exact measurements in a garment that is being made for the first time as you don’t know how it will stretch or sit with the elastic applied.

If you are outsourcing a spec sheet, it’s easier if the factory designs the spec especially if you are going to an overseas manufacturer. If you are getting a spec sheet made before production ensure you either go with someone who will alter the spec after first fits or someone who will provide the PDF version and the excel version so you can alter everything afterwards and be in full control of it.

Learning how to write a specification sheet will help you communicate what you are looking for and where on the lingerie garment you want what measurement.

For further reading:

Book: How to spec a bra and brief

Design sheet: That automatically writes your spec sheet

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