How long do samples take?
You’ve been bashing out an idea for your lingerie brand in your head for awhile. And now you are ready. Ready to begin. But you have no idea on time scales.
Here is what you need to know.
Lingerie Tech packs
Before you approach a factory you need a tech pack, this will consist of a techncal drawing and a blueprint of how your garment will be made and what it will be made from. Yes, you can approach a factory before hand without a tech pack but what thens to happen, everything takes longer, you will receive a generic reply, they can’t cost what they can’t see, and they can’t tell you about deadline etc if they have no idea what your design consists of. You can get a factory to make the techpack as you go along, but here is the kicker, you don;t own the tech pack.
If you decide to move factories at one point then you have to start again. And i know this because I have on numerous occasions re-done tech packs for brands that already have products out there and they are wanting to move factories.
Do yourself a favour and invest up front, if down the line you think ‘actually I don’t want to launch a brand’ you haven’t committed to a factory or a design team where they charge you monthly, you’ve invested in a tech-pack that you own and you can pick up at any time in the future.
So, you’ve got your tech pack, you’ve found a factory, before we talk about sampling time, the factory are probably wanting to know the following information.
Most manufacturers have minimum order quantities.
Be ready to answer:
How many units per style?
How many sizes per design?
Total order volume?
Tips if you’re just starting out, look for:
Low MOQ manufacturers
Start-up friendly factories
Being upfront about your quantities helps avoid wasted conversations. Some factories are geared to working with start ups others are not.
Lingerie samples
Sampling time differs on the complexity of your design, sampling time can take between 2-6 weeks, here is how that is broken down.
1-2 weeks will be pattern making, once you send your tech pack, the manufacturer creates a pattern, which is the technical template used to cut fabric.
If your design is complex (underwire bras, corsetry), this can take longer
If your tech pack is unclear, expect delays or errors
This is where many first-time founders lose time—unclear details = back-and-forth questions. Make sure you tech pack is clear and ideally has a spec sheet or sample size sheet.
First Sample (Prototype #1) (2–4 weeks)
This is your first physical version. Don;t be dishearten when you first receive it as it’s usually made with:
Available or substitute fabrics
Basic trims (not always final quality)
Don’t expect perfection here. This sample is mainly to check:
Overall construction
Basic fit
Design accuracy
And to be able to give you a accurate price on your garment
Fit Review & Feedback (1–2 weeks on your side)
Once you receive the sample, you’ll need to evaluate it carefully.
For lingerie, you should check:
Fit on the body (ideally on a model or fit model)
Comfort and support
Strap placement and tension
Fabric stretch and recovery
Stitch quality
Then you send clear, detailed feedback: This isa called red lining your tech pack
Photos (front, back, side)
Markups or notes
Specific corrections (not vague comments like “make it better”)
Also put in what is correct so the factory doesn;t change that part.
The clearer your feedback, the faster the next round.
Revisions & Second Sample (2–4 weeks)
The manufacturer updates the pattern and produces a revised sample.
Most brands go through 2–4 rounds of sampling, especially for bras.
Each round improves:
Fit precision
Material accuracy
Construction quality
If on the third fit things are looking way off and issues liek quality of stithcing haven;t been resolved reques t a meeting or a confimration of clear understadning htat this sampling is not acceptable and you won;t be paying for hte next round if this is the case.
Pre-Production Sample (PPS) (2–3 weeks)
This is the final version before bulk production.
It uses:
Actual production fabrics
Correct trims and colors
Final construction methods
This is your “sign-off” or “sealer” sample. Once approved, production begins.
So total realistic time range on sampling is:
Fastest case: 4–6 weeks (simple designs, very experienced team)
Typical: 8–12 weeks
Complex lingerie (bras, structured pieces): 12–16+ weeks
What Slows the Process Down
Several things can extend your timeline, these include complex designs, poor tech packs, material sourcing, often factories have dead stock materials don;t be afraid a request to look at these, this may help you wiht your minimums as well. Also to delay the process is slow feedback on your side and fit issues.
Costs
Sampling isn’t cheap, and you should budget for it.
Typical costs include:
Pattern making fees
Cost per sample (can range widely depending on complexity)
Shipping samples back and forth
And remember—you’ll likely pay for multiple rounds. Some factories charge, per sample, others charge per hoour to make it and others x4 of what your bulk cost will be.
Build this time line into your lingerie design process
A realistic flow might look like:
Week 1–2: Pattern making
Week 3–5: First sample
Week 6: Your feedback
Week 7–9: Second sample
Week 10: Adjustments
Week 11–12: Pre-production sample
So a Total of 10–12 weeks, this may be longer depending if anything along the way is delayed or local holidays for your factory for example in europe some factories close in August and in China it is Chinese new year in February. I always like to add a 1/3 extra time of what a factory gives me to allow for delays and shipping etc.