How to eliminate wrinkling on the side cradle
When hosting the master class ‘Grading above an E cup’ a questions was asked about the gap between the underwire and side cradle, what it should be on certain cup sizes and why wrinkling occurred there on certain styles. I went on to explain the gap sizes I use when creating a pattern for any bra cup size, and then when I sent out the slides I was talking about I added this slide about wire gaps.
Image from slides from ‘How to grade above an E-cup’
But Why Is There Wrinkling?
Wrinkling in the side cradle happens when there isn’t enough of a gap between your underwire and the cradle. Typically, the wire sits about 1.5 cm away from the cradle pattern, but if you’re experiencing fabric bunching or tension, that distance isn’t enough.
The Fix: Adjusting the Wire-Cradle Gap
To eliminate wrinkling and improve the fit, try increasing the gap between your underwire and the cradle to at least 2.5 cm. (Or increase the gap by 1cm if the gap is already 2.5cm or more). This small adjustment gives the wire more room to sit naturally, allowing the fabric to lie smooth and flush against the body.
How to Alter Your Pattern
Identify the issue – Check if the wrinkling appears along the side cradle while your bra is being worn.
Modify the cradle pattern – Increase the wire gap by adding 1 cm to the space between the wire and the cradle line.
Test with a toile – Sew a test version with your adjusted pattern to see how the fabric behaves.
I show on the video below how to move the pattern by increasing the gap.