How to design a lingerie collection

How to Design a Lingerie Collection That Sells

Designing a lingerie collection can be a thrilling creative journey. Whether you're filling a gap in the market or simply want to create gorgeous pieces, having a structured approach will make the process smoother and more successful. From my experience working with buyers, I’ve learned that it’s easier to sell a story rather than just a single design. A well-thought-out collection helps buyers visualize how the pieces will sit together in their store—and makes for a more striking photoshoot too!

That’s why I always design three mini-collections within a range. This method has worked for UK high street brands, Australian retailers, my own brand, and even my tutorials. For UK buyers I designed physical samples, with Australian buyers I designed a collection in CAD then presented the design boards. For my brand, I worked in seasons, designing three collections that connected in some way—helping me meet fabric minimums while keeping the designs cohesive.

Finding Your Starting Point

Last year, while putting together pattern and fabric packs, I hit a creative block. With endless directions to take, I didn’t know which direction to take. The solution? I designed a collection.

In my course How to Design and Refine Your First Collection – Ideas and Direction, I teach how to find your starting point—whether it’s an era, a colour palette, or five words that define your brand. My personal go-to? Fabrics. But for this collection, I took inspiration from a song: Raining in Baltimore. One lyric—"the circus is falling"—sparked an idea, and I ran with it. If you don’t have a theme, PICK ONE! Trust me, it makes designing so much easier.

Research and Mood Boarding

Next, I dove into circus costumes, specifically from the 1940s (a nod to my love of vintage swimwear). A mood board followed—nothing fancy, just a collage of ideas. To clear my mind, I started with the obvious: commercial, generic circus-inspired designs. This led to researching circus print fabrics, red-and-white stripes reminiscent of tents, and leopard prints for a strongman vibe.

Then, I revisited my mood board. What tied everything together? Stars. High-waisted briefs. A color palette of yellow, red, teal blue, and black. These elements became my foundation.

Designing the Collection

With my theme locked in, I designed shapes and sourced fabrics:

  • A yellow star fabric mixed with black

  • High-waisted briefs (a signature vintage shape)

  • A high-neck bra with strappy back a nod to tent ropes

  • Bamboo fabric in solid teal blue to echo bold circus costumes (1/2 made)

  • A plain black bra with star appliqués over the nipples (yet to be made)

Bringing It All Together

Every piece needed to stand alone while also fitting within the collection. Here’s how I made that happen:

  • Black was a common thread in every piece

  • Stars connected two of the mini-collections

  • High-waisted shapes were repeated throughout

  • I included a commercial piece, a design-forward piece, and a reliable staple—ensuring variety for different customers while maintaining cohesion

The Takeaways: 5 Steps to Designing a Lingerie Collection

  1. Find Your Starting Point – Whether it’s a fabric, song, or historical reference, having a theme makes designing so much easier.

  2. Create a Mood Board – It doesn’t have to be fancy; just collect visuals that inspire your designs.

  3. Design the Obvious First – Get the commercial and generic ideas out of your system to clear space for creativity.

  4. Tie Your Pieces Together – Use colours, shapes, or motifs to create a cohesive collection.

  5. Offer Variety – Include a commercial piece, an innovative design, and a reliable staple to appeal to different buyers.

Want a step-by-step guide to designing your own collection? My course How to Design and Refine Your First Collection – Ideas and Direction will take you through the process from inspiration to final design. Get started today and bring your dream collection to life!




Example below of boards that I use to present to the buyers in Australia

Designs by me, CAD work by Karma Voce

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