A wrong fitting bra and how to solve it
I remember one of my first blogs (back in 2011)was about how 80% of women are apparently wearing the wrong size bra, (I think that anyone who has had a lingeire blog has written about this!) and yet the women I meet are still confused about what fits correct. It doesn’t help that you can walk into a fitting session and get measured differently on the same day by different fitters. So, instead of working out your size I recommend working out per each bra what is the correct fit and get your size for that bra. Please note that you may be different sizes in different bras. Let go of defining your bra size by a certain number. I just want to clarify at this point that there is no standardisation for bra sizing so different brands of bras will fit differently and the way the sizing works a 38A has a bigger cup size than a 30D so stop getting into your head a D cup is big, you need the full size to determine your bra cup size.
Okay how I can help….
I will show you wrong fitting bras from images I have gotten on the internet and how to solve them. I just want to point out I am not claiming that the bras I’m showing you are bad fitting bras, I’m just saying that they have got the wrong size on the model they have fitted them on. Which doesn’t help you the consumer. It’s one of the things that irks me when I see it, you don’t see women in trainers with their feet sticking out the back because they don’t fit, that would be ridiculous wouldn’t it? And yet I see it all the time with underwear.
Let’s start with the UNDER-BAND
If you look at the back of the bras and you see a sad face on your under-band, it’s because your bra is sad it doesn’t fit correctly! You under-band should be straight, it should be horizontal, it should not look like a bridge or a sad smile! Granted it is harder to get the band straight when you have bigger boobs as that it a lot of weight pulling down at the front of the bra, (though I have seen this alot of smaller breasted women). Your bra is riding up at the back because it cannot support the weight of your breasts so it’s a bit like a seesaw, weight goes one side and the bra goes up the other. This though is so solvable, go down a back size so if you are wearing a 34 go to a 32. Now when you do this you need to go up a cup size, this is because a 34B has the same cup volume as a 32C, I will do another blog on sister sizing, but basically when you do a back size you go up a cup size to have the same cup volume size.
So How tight should a bra band actually be?
Because everyone is different, there’s no universal answer to this. However, there are a few questions you can ask yourself to ensure the proper fit:
The back is pulled up (literally like a sad face) If the back of your bra rides up and is no longer a straight line, the band size is too big. You under-band should provide most of the bra’s support.
Tip - Look at your profile in a mirror, lift your arms the bra should form a straight line. Turn to the side and the band should not be higher at the back than under the breasts. It should be a straight line.
The back of the bra cuts into your body. If your bra hurts and cuts into your side, back or under the breasts, the band is too tight. Take a deep breath, you should be able to, regardless what we think a bra is not a torture instrument. The back should be tight but not uncomfortable. Just as in the previous example, it goes the other way, if go up one or more band sizes, you must go down a cup size. i.e if you are wearing a 32D and go up a size you need to wear a 34C.
If you need something to aim for then you should be able to get one finger under your underband at the front (thought his might be tricky for some style bras) and two at the back as a rough guide. In my experience of fitting I rarely have to go up a size as most people tend to wear a bigger banded bra than the other way round.
UNDERWIRE DIGGING IN
Your underwire should encase the breast tissue not on it, if you have no idea what this looks like then when you take you bra off, have a look at the marks on your body, is the shape of the wire going around and under your boobs or is it no them. This is a common problem I see, underwires sitting on the side of the boob, and lets face it’s not your fault as this is a fault I see online. Your underwire should extend past the breast tissue, if you are not use to this look you will think the wire is too big, however in the bra you have lean forward and swoop and scoop the breast tissue into the cup and boob that is peeking over the cups means you need a bigger cup (so bigger underwire).
If you need a guide then the underwire should be pointing in line with your armpit.
SPILLAGE
As above If your breasts are spilling over the top and sides of your bra, it’s a sign that you need a larger cup size. One tried-and-true indicator is if you put a top on over your bra and can see lumps and bumps (not just the roundness of the breast tissue) then you need to size up.
Some women think that they get better cleavage if their bra is small in the cup, however all they are gaining is a bra that they don’t get full support from. If the aim is to create cleavage, then seek out a bra in the right size that offers that.
GAPING CUPS
If there are gaps in the top of your cups that no matter how much you adjust the straps then it’s time to either try a different style bra on or tray a smaller size in that style.
You may experience if you have an asymmetrical boob shape, have side set boobs, or are fuller on the bottom than the top. Basically it’s not you it’s the bra design not for your body shape.
i after goign down a size the problem persists then try a different style. Push up styles are likely to give you gaps if your boob shape is like one mentioned above.
CENTRE FRONT
CF
The centre front (also called the gore) is suppose to lay flat between your breasts, if you are wearing an underwire bra, the underwires are suppose to lie flat against the sternum not on top of the breasts. This then offers the most supports. The bigger boobs you have, there may not be space between the breasts to sit. However, before you head down that path rule out these fit issues.
If the the CF is not lying flat:
Your band may be too big so the CF isn’t able to have tension to lie flat against the body. Go down a band size (and up a cup)
Your cup is too small and there isn’t enough cup material to allow the Cup to sit back far enough for the space at the CF to lie flat. Go up a cup size
Your breast shape doesn’t work well with that style bra, change the style of the bra
SHOULDER STRAP ISSUES
Do you shoulder straps fall off your shoulders? Make sure they are tight enough, if they are and they still fall off, you may find racer back bras better or a plunge style where the straps are naturally closer.
If you are finding you have to tighten your straps completely and they then make the sad face at the back of the bra and dig in, you need better support with your under-band so go down an under-band size (and up a cup size), your support needs to come from the under-band not the straps.
As a general rule you should be able to fit one-to-two fingers between the shoulder and bra strap.
OVERVIEW
Under band:
It should be parallel and horizontal with the floor
Should be able to fit two fingers under the under-band, you are going for a snug but doesn’t move feeling
If you’ve bought a bra it need to be set on the loosest setting so you can tighten it up over time. Elastics stretch out over time when they are under pressure constantly.
Cups:
Fully encasing all the breast
A smooth appearance.
No gaping or bulging.
Underwires:
Sitting flat at the centre front in between your boobs.
Touching your ribcage all the way from the centre to under your armpit.
No digging in or excessive movement.
Straps:
Sitting comfortably on your shoulders with two fingers being able to fit under
No digging in.
No falling down.
If you are finding that after going through all these points and your bra still doesn’t fit then your boob shape may not be right for that style of bra. Sometimes you can’t eradicate all the problems, you may just need a different style bra.