Why sew a hidden gusset?
You may have noticed in your briefs/thongs that there are two types of gussets you can have.
An open ended gusset
A hidden gusset
An open ended gusset
This is where the gusset is sewn into the back seam but a gap is left at the front (so you can get your fingers in between the fabric and gusset lining), this type of gusset can stretch at the top, and the top of the gusset can then go wavy as it is bigger than the outer fabric. Stitching can also unravel and the longevity of the brief or thong doesn;t last as long as a hidden gusset so you would need to purchase more briefs sooner.
A hidden gusset
This is where the gusset is sewn at the back of the brief and at the front, but inside you see no stitching, it’s all been bagged out. These briefs will last longer at the gusset area.
So why sew the open ended gusset, it’s all down to cost. When I worked in a UK manufacturer, every sewing procedure had a time it took to go through production and if you sewn the hidden gusset compared to the open ended gusset it took approx 15 seconds longer and you also need another person to move it between the sewing machines.
So, the reason is cost. That’s not to say that some aren’t done because of style so you don’t have the front seam, however most is due to cost.
So if you want your briefs to have more longevity sew the gusset with a hidden gusset.
If you wish to learn more about making briefs then I run a one-to-one course
This is a four week course, you will book in for one hour a week with a time that’s suitable for you and learn about how to make a pair of briefs and more.
To start with you will be sent three patterns for you to make and I will go through with you how to attach elastic, sew a hidden gusset and teach you the basics of brief making.
Each week we will build upon your knowledge, like fitting the briefs after you’ve made and how to alter the pattern, then you get to know how to add style lines so you design your own briefs.
The last week is designed around what you want to achieve, so this could be going over the previous weeks, me sending you more patterns to try out or showing you specs sheets and the next steps if were to contact a factory.