Why sew a hidden gusset?

You may have noticed in your briefs/thongs that there are two types of gussets you can have.

1. An open ended gusset

2. A hidden gusset

An open ended gusset

This is where the gusset is sewn into the back seam but a gap is left at the front (so you can get your fingers in between the fabric and gusset lining), this type of gusset can stretch at the top, and the top of the gusset can then go wavy as it is bigger than the outer fabric. Stitching can also unravel and the longevity of the brief or thong doesn;t last as long as a hidden gusset so you would need to purchase more briefs sooner.

A hidden gusset

This is where the gusset is sewn at the back of the brief and at the front, but inside you see no stitching, it’s all been bagged out. These briefs will last longer at the gusset area.

So why sew the open ended gusset, it’s all down to cost. When I worked in a UK manufacturer, every sewing procedure had a time it took to go through production and if you sewn the hidden gusset compared to the open ended gusset it took approx 15 seconds longer and you also need another person to move it between the sewing machines.

So, the reason is cost. That’s not to say that some aren’t done because of style so you don’t have the front seam, however most is due to cost.

So if you want your briefs to have more longevity sew the gusset with a hidden gusset.

If you wish to learn more about making briefs then I run a one-to-one course

One-to-one Lingeri-E-Course - Designing & Making briefs

£275.00