All you need to know about Boselli Satin
Not all satins are equal. Just like other fabrics you use in lingerie, the fabric can make a difference to elevate your designs you make; and Boselli satin falls into that category. I first used it in my first job when I designed for UK high-street stores and loved the way it looked luxurious with a smooth glossy appearance and not cheap like other satins can. With a mono stretch (and along the both biases), Boselli satin gives you the perfect support for even designing the bigger cups.
So what is satin?
The name satin refers to the weave (the technique produces long floating yarns on the surface) not the textile. Due to the tight weave, satin is recognised as having one shiny, glossy smooth side and one matt side. That is its most identifiable characteristic. How this is achieved is by weaving four or more threads over one under thread.
Due to the way it is weaved, the plus point for satin is that it is very durable and easy to care for and can be machine washed. I can testify to this, I know lingerie looks better when hand washed however, sometimes life (ie keeping three kids alive) means that things get washed the quick way. Had it been a case that the satin lingerie looks awful when machine washed (like silk can) my solution would have been to make less lingerie out of satin.
The elegant drape makes it perfect for lingerie design and with the multitude of colours it comes in, there is an option for everyone to choose from. It’s often used in the couture industry so you can be guaranteed a great looking and finished garment. Personally I love that it can advance your designs to another level, it works well when you mix it with another fabric such as mesh to create panelling effects.
As well as many colours of Boselli satin, it comes in patterns such as polka dots and a favourite pattern of mine - houndstooth . This pattern started off woven in wool, and was started from, that if you didn’t belong to a clan (so didn’t have a tartan) you could choose to wear houndstooth, I love that fact that a pattern dating as far back as 300-100AC is still prevalent today. What started as the shepherd’s wearing this pattern as an outer garment for protection (because the pattern merged together when viewed from afar which made them seem further in the distance than they were), it then went onto being adopted by the wealthy in the 1930s, to now me sewing up the fabric pattern in lingerie design.
The designs today have been kept quite simple, with a full satin soft bra whereby the elastics are encased in the neckline to create a smooth look, a simple yet beautiful fitting, full satin brief, a mid-waist panel brief, and a floating underwire bra paired with a Sophie Hallette leavers lace seamed crop top underneath. This has to be my new favourite design - summer here I come. With the houndstooth design being a bit of an outlier these designs seemed well suited to it.
When sewing with Boselli fabric
The minus point of satin that puts people off is the handling of the fabric, the slippery nature of the fabric requires a certain level of skill and patience. Unlike cotton, satin does not hold its shape making cutting out and sewing challenging. If you are starting out then making a cami is a great place to start or briefs but use a mesh back to allow for movement and body ease when you wear it.
When cutting the fabric I would be to use fabric weights and a rotary wheel, if you must cut with scissors use tailors chalk to mark the fabric and don’t pin your pattern to the fabric as the pins can cause snagging and you’ll be forever cursing when you pick up your fabric to cut and it slips. If you are a beginner, only cut one layer at once and mirror your pattern for the other side to prevent any further slipping or pulling of the fabric when you cut. Don’t let the cutting out of the fabric put you off though, I can assure you once your lingerie is sewn up you will have the most exquisite style of lingerie you have ever made.
Top Tip on how to find the selvedge if you’ve cut it off
We’ve all been there, chopping away and then coming back to the Boselli satin fabric and realised you’ve chopped off the selvedge, if this has happened to you then how you identify the selvedge is that the selvedge of the satin has no stretch.
Things that may interest you about the Boselli company
A renowned Italian textile manufacturer, it was founded in 1898 (by Enrico Boselli), in 1919 they reduced their staff working hours to 8 hours a day and 1/2 day Saturday and had a minimum way, this in turn led to their theme being discussed in Rome and eventually became law. In 1995 the fourth generation of Bosellis ran the company.
For those who wish to shop for any of the part of the bra or brief then you can head here
For the strapping please contact CSF directly.
For those wishing to learn more about fabrics *Part two of ‘How to design and refine your first lingerie collection' all about fabrics and components is due to be released end of July’