Grading a triangle bra
It’s been awhile since putting grading info on the blog - today we look at grading a triangle bra.
Bras cups can increase by 1cm vertically or horizontally or 1.2cm depending on the cup shape or company.
With this shape cup being on just an wide elastic band I usually grade this by 1cm as the cup stretches with the elastic and there is no CF to hold it in position.
So on the pattern piece I would raise both the top points by 0.5cm and lower the bottom points by 0.5cm.
At the CF and on the side I would extend each point by 0.5 (so these points go out 0.5cm and down by 0.5cm).
Usually I try split all the grades equally but on this pattern rather than split the 0.5cm grade horizontally (so 0.2cm and 0.3cm) I put all the 0.5cm on the outer edge of the pattern, this is because at the top of the pattern it only goes up at 0.5cm so the aim of this grade is to keep the curve that goes over the bust (A—C cup) the same over all the cups as the curve isn’t that deep so you don’t want to flatten it out by moving one point out.
When grading, it’s easier if you can if possible keep the grade on the adjoining pattern piece the same, this is then easier to check your patterns once graded and easier to put them all together.
Regarding the elastic I would lengthen the elastic by 5cm for each size (in the s,m,l) sizes so on the half it’s 2.5cm, the cup has increased by 1cm so the elastic to the back would increase by 1.5cm.
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