How to grade a dart on a bra?
Grading needn’t be hard sometimes you just need to know the simple tips to get your desired grade.
If you have been grading your bra patterns you may have come across (or have no idea) how to grade a dart in a bra.
With hand grading you move the pattern in a certain amount along the ‘x’ line and in a certain amount along the ‘y’ line, (moving out horizontally and vertically).
If you did this with a dart you are making the dart longer (which you want) but by doing this when you are increasing the depth of the bra but also decreasing the width of the dart. You need the dart shape to stay the same with it getting bigger in bigger sizes.
*If you have a narrower dart you will have less volume in your cup, (see pink).
To grade a bra point that goes out at a 45 degree angle the easiest way is to draw a line coming out at the same angle and measure the grade amount with a dash mark and move the pattern to that mark. This ensures you get the right amount graded with the right shape.
And it’s that simple.
If you are wanting to know how to grade each point, you can find all the details in ‘How to grade a bra and brief’ It shows you different ways to grade a dart including this way.
