Adding seam allowance
It seems so easy, you add seam allowance to every style line you cut along your pattern to make sure that the new pattern doesn’t end up smaller than the original.
For those just starting out in lingerie design, the seam allowance refers to the extra fabric that extends beyond the cutting line of the pattern pieces. In lingerie these are usually 6mm unless otherwise stated.
There has been times when I’ve altered patterns and forgotten to add the seam allowance on all the corresponding pieces, this could have been because there was too many pieces or that I went away from the pattern, came back to it and had lost where I was.
I now follow steps when I alter my pattern so I if I leave it half way through, I know when I come back to it exactly where I am.
I take my pattern draw around it to make a new pattern and I add style/s line on it, this could be I want to add in panels, different colours etc to the pattern.
Before I cut the pattern pieces out, I go along each style line I have made with a wide highlighter (different colour for each style line) this is so when I cut the pattern I know exactly where each pattern goes next to each part. Also if I were to stop at this point then when I come back to it, I know I haven’t added any seam allowance on yet as the pen mark is along the edge.
I cut around the pattern pieces and then draw around them so I can add the seam allowance to the edges. I’m adding 6mm to the edge, and I usually do this with a pattern master/pattern ruler/french curve as these are great for bra curves. They are usually in 5mm/10mm increments so just use a pen and then cut on the outside of the pen mark as this will then be 6mm.
Cut the new pattern out with the seam allowance added, I usually write 6mm on each side I have newly added onto so I know when I come back to this pattern, I have added the 6mm.
Before I cut out the fabric I lay the new pattern over the original pattern to check the seam allowance and the shape of the pattern to ensure it is correct.
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