How to grade a lace back brief
Once you know the knowledge of how much to grade bras and briefs by then those rules can transfer onto any style of lingerie.
I will be putting these grade examples into videos eventually and show by hand, but until then I’ll still show examples via the computer so you can get an overall view of the grading techniques.
As explained in the book “how to grade a bra and brief” grading is like dropping a pebble in the water, the shape that you are emulating extends out even-ally on all sides. When it comes to simple briefs though when hand grading I tend to shift all the grade up and out (if getting bigger) , as you get the same results, it’s quicker and the brief is a big enough shape to allow the grade to be done like that. Now here’s the thing with grading, it’s all personal preference to reach the same end point.
So in todays blog you will be looking at grading a lace back brief, the thing most people question about this grade is the back piece being a straight edge as it sits on the scallop of the lace, so it has to be straight, so you can’t blend in the leg like you would on a curved pattern piece.
I start every piece the same, I draw out the pattern pieces, note how much the whole piece grades by then mark each point of the pattern how much it’s going to move up and out (getting bigger) by.
So grading a brief, it grows in height by 1cm and with by 2.5cm on the half (1.25cm on half of the pattern). As discussed you are going to put the full grade going up and out so the pattern will raise by 1cm and out by 1.25cm. On this type of pattern you are not going to grade the side seams or gusset area.
As you can see (above) when the brief has been graded the gusset area has stayed the same. I’ve stacked the patterns so the meet at the bottom (top image) and how they meet mid leg (bottom image). The bigger image kicks out only slightly and as you are using a scallop lace, you are always going to get it so the brief sits across the fullest part of the bum, but as you’ve graded it out the brief will still cover the bum (you can see this more on the bottom image.
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If you wish to learn more about grading please click on image below.
