Advice for those who wish to enter the lingerie industry
Whether you’ve finished up your course, mid-way through, navigating the possibilities of a lingerie course or just wish to start a job in lingerie design, then you need to look at what you need to learn in your spare time.
The industry is forever changing and with the way things are at the minute, then you need to try be one step ahead.
When I gained my first job, the opportunities were different from when the head designer at the company I worked for started there, and I suspect the opportunities are different again.
So whilst you are trying to work out what direction you want to go in or stuck in lockdown searching feverishly for jobs, here is some advice, which I hope will help give you some knowledge to take and work positively in the direction of becoming a lingerie designer.
Portfolio
If you’ve been to uni, or done a lingerie course you’ve got the start of a portfolio. Dig out everything you’ve got, even the stuff you don’t like/ you don’t think is up to scratch, and put it all in front of you. By seeing you’ve got something, stops the block of thinking you have to start from scratch. You need two piles, whats’ going in your portfolio and what’s not. You are only as strong as your weakest piece.
Read that again: You are only as strong as your weakest piece.
Better to rock up or show three great pieces rather than 20 okay pieces, that your three great pieces get lost in.
So you’ve two choices either re-do your pieces or start to plan to design new pieces.
Ask yourself the question what type of company do I want to work for? Now research those companies and when you do your portfolio design for them. It sounds totally obvious, but having been in an interview room, you would be surprised how many people haven’t made a single piece relevant to the job they want. If you’re wanting to work for a company that believes in being ethical, reflect that in your designs. Want a fast fashion position, reflect that in your designs.
For example when I worked for Topshop the lingerie buyers followed the outerwear buyers trends for some of their designs, so I would always look to see what was out there. If Topshop or another high street store is who you are wanting to design for, take the shapes they have and if you can use Illustrator then drop in some outerwear fabric patterns into lingerie so it’s showing that you are aware of that particular company.
What I would also do is do as much as a project on one piece as possible, Can you write a tech pack page for your design (not a whole pack) just a construction page? Not sure about them (a book here helps) go get a bra and look at every style line, every stitch and that’s what a construction page, is - writing how it’s made so a factory can follow.
It doesn’t matter if it’s not accurate or laid out exact, you’re new to the game. Every company will do it slightly differently, but if you’re got a technical reference in your portfolio rather than lots of pretty designs then that shows the company you understand about lingerie design.
When i’ve ever sat in with interviews, I’ve always rallied for the person who is enthusiastic and has a depth in their portfolio rather than one who everything exact, as what can I teach that person? How will they blend in with the team?
So as well as having a design for that company you want to work for ensure that it is a commercial design (one that is sellable to the their core customer) I would also have designs that reflect yourself, for example I love designing with colour so always have in my designs.
Keep learning
You won’t learn everything on your course, from one book etc… So even if you’ve finished your course, keep reading, keep researching. I didn’t learn about different types of boobs and what bras suited them from any course or any job, it was my own research.
You are currently sitting on the best resources at this moment, so start to read, surf the internet. Whether it’s lingerie blogs, lingerie books, pattern books, vintage pattern books, or watching Youtube tutorials or even reading about outerwear, it will all propel you forward. Pick areas that interest you.
Online presence
I have heard from a couple of students in the past that they have been advise not to do blogs, not to set up websites as employers will think they are more interested in pursuing their own stuff. I disagree, through action comes clarity, you will learn far more if you do something and figure it out rather than waiting.
It’s better to do something with your time rather than be stagnant, and who know your sideline website could gain momentum and you may realise you don’t want to work for a company.
Be noticed
This can be a hard one, you are in a sea of other designers vying for the same job, the good news is as humans we are designed to notice things that seem different, so use it to your advantage. Don’t just wait for jobs that are advertised (I have only ever gotten two jobs in my life like that - every other job I got was because I contacted the company directly). Write to companies. What can you do that is different? I once made envelopes in the shape of a pair of pants and sewn the paper together on my sewing machine. I’ve also once applied to work at Ted Baker and throughout my cover letter, I capitalised the word TED, for example, “I wanTED to apply…” I didn’t get the job but they did take the time to write back to me. Then when I got sponsored in Australia, I first applied for the job before it was advertised, I researched lingerie companies in the parts of Australia I wanted to live, then wrote to them all. This company wrote back and said I didn’t have enough technical experience. I re-wrote my cv outlining exactly what I had done and contacted them again. A year later a job was advertised with that company, I re-wrote my cv again using what they were looking for (as it was worded different than for the UK market) and ended up getting sponsorship for the job. Don;t be scared to fight for your corner.
So what are you to do now? I would …
Sort out/start your portfolio - choose a company/brand and mock design for them, with commercial pieces (for their core market), moodboards and technical pages. Or design some designs you think would sit well in their brand (this works especially well in smaller brands).
Start a webpage/blog/facebook page/Instagram account in an area you are interested in. If it’s niche thats even better as there are many out there.
Build up your knowledge - if you’re looking for books - I have a heap here.
Re-write your cv if needs be - if you’re going for a technical position then make sure everything you’ve done reflects this
Think of ideas that will get you to stand out.
Above all, know this takes time, keep going. Take breaks to allow ideas to form - ever noticed you get the best ideas in the shower, out for a run or whilst lying in bed - your brain has time to formulate ideas when you stand back. Also don’t be afraid to change track, if you liked to design in black for years but now love floral, let your designs evolve.
If you keep going you will get there.
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