Distance learning Core bra pattern cutting & grading course

After the successful release of the first edition of the "Distance Learning Core Bra Pattern Cutting & Grading Course (The Package.)"  Perfect for those of you unable to attend the two day course that runs.

THERE WILL BE A the second release which will be the "Plus Fit Bra Pattern Cutting & Grading Course." These courses are based on the extended version of the 2 day courses that David Morris teaches from the Innovation Centre at De Monfort University in Leicester.

 

Course Content brochure will be sent to those interested and will include:

 

1. Plus fit Bodyshape

2. The engineering of Plus Fit bra shape

3. Drafting the 32F Wired Block

4. Plus fit Fabrics, Wire grading & components

5. Plus fit grading rules

6. Drafting the 32F Soft Bra Block

7. Styling Project 1 - Drafting and modifying 32F Plus fit Soft Bras

8. Construction process

9. Styling Project 2 - Drafting and modifying a classic Plus fit Soft Bra

10. Plus fit Soft Bra grading rules

11. Overview of Plus fit styles

12. Construction process

13. Styling Project 3 - Drafting the 34GG Bra

14. Styling Project 3 - Darted 36 GG Bra

15. Fitting Plus Fit Bras

16. Using Adobe illustrator to draft plus fit bra patterns

17. Further Plus fit grading methods


Titles to follow on from this course are:

Sports Bra Pattern Cutting & Grading. 

Moulded Bra Pattern Cutting & Grading.

 

This package and the following courses cost £200 each.

One on one Tutor support will be made available through Skype (If required.)

A closed Facebook group has been set up for this course. This can be used as a central resource point for the course and a place to communicate with all other students that are currently working through the course

If you are interested please contact Dave Morris by email at dmorris@iatechnical.com and we will be able to send you all the information about Distance Learning and this course.   click here for the website.

Would love to hear how you get on.

 

 

 

Getting your lingerie made by a factory

One of the most common questions I get asked, is 'how do i get my lingerie made by a factory?' As I like to tackle all things technical in lingerie. The booklet "How to write a bra and brief tech pack" will be out early next year. 

The booklet takes you step-by-step through sewing terms, what pages should be in a tech pack, the lay out. And it also uses the same lingerie shapes in 'How to spec a bra and brief' so should you need both booklets, you can work with them together and aren't starting from afresh.

If you aren't ready for your lingerie to be produced at a factory, the booklet may be a handy reference for manufacturing tips and layouts.

Rocking around the Xmas Tree

It's not December yet but i've been searching for lingerie to wear at Christmas time, though searching for Christmas Lingerie online, what inevitably  pops up is red mesh bras or briefs with a white fur trim.

If you'd rather not look like Mrs Claus (and i'm in that camp) but still want a elegant Xmas feel - think red, gold, or rhinestones, then check out these pieces.

Each design though completely different has a superb strong design that you won't mind peeking out from under your clothes. Roll on Christmas. 

How to sew a high waisted brief

If you have been following the 'Creating SS15 collection' then this is one of the collection pieces being made. We have gone from mood boards, sketches, working drawings and patterns, Now the pieces of fabric have been cut and sewn. I have sewn the brief on a standard sewing machine - just because it's what most people will have to start out.

All the components and fabric cut ready to go.

All the components and fabric cut ready to go.

A reminder of the shape of the brief:

The legs and waist will have fold over elastic, which is as it sounds, elastic that fold over the front of the fabric and back, it's great for creating a clean finish. Also as I am only using a sewing machine and not an overlocker, I have to think about the internal seams. Traditionally french seams are used on delicate fabric to enclose your raw edge. If you are planning to use a french seam remember to add the seam allowance into the pattern. As I am wanting to create a control brief look, I'm going to make the seams a detail, so have bias cut binding in which I am going to enclose the seam, then turn to the side and sew down so it looks like the seam has been taped.

To begin with I always create the front panel, if you always follow a structure of your sewing it's easier to keep track if you have many pieces.

sewing the side seams
SEWING THE BINDING TO ENCLOSE THE SEAM

SEWING THE BINDING TO ENCLOSE THE SEAM

Once the side seams are attached, next the gusset is sewn on. If you're making your briefs on a domestic sewing machine only and no overlocker, then have the  gusset in two pieces the outer gusset which is part of the front and the inner gusset which is the gusset part, this means that you can hide, both the front and back seam.

Shown in the picture, the top layer of fabric is the front of the brief, the second layer is the back of the brief, and the bottom is the gusset.

SEWING THE GUSSET

SEWING THE GUSSET

To create the hidden gusset seam, you need to twist the inner gusset and sew to the back gusset, so when straightened the gusset lies flat and seam is hidden.

Next sew the back side seams like the front and then the whole brief is complete. I usually sew the full brief first then apply the elastics and over lap the ends and then sew down the overlap of the elastic to secure. 

The elastic to the legs and waist are attached by x/stitch, starting at the back seam. See finished brief below.

FINAL FRONT OF HIGH WAIST BRIEF

FINAL FRONT OF HIGH WAIST BRIEF

WHAT I WOULD CHANGE

Having sketched out the pattern freehand, there are usually alterations to make after the first toile. What i would change for the next fit and toile, would be lighter elastic, the elastic was too strong for the legs, you can see this on the back brief picture just up from the gusset, as they are not lying completely flat. Also because the elastic is quite heavy you can see the join. 

Having tried them on, I would take 3 cm off the back side panel and add it to the back centre panel. This will allow for a better stretch around the body, and will have better hanger appeal, as the front seam will then be in line with the back seam.

Making Lingerie the vintage way

There's something romantic about sewing your own lingerie using a vintage lingerie pattern. Though those who haven't much sewing experience behind them, the patterns from the 50s through to the 70s can be quite daunting, as the patterns are aimed for people to have a bit of knowledge and skill, as women sewed more of their own clothes than they do now. 

For those wanting to start to make their own bloomers Coletterie.com has bountiful ideas and tips on sewing have a free down loadable mini bloomers pattern.

If you simply can't wait to make your own then check out these beautiful pieces.

DITA VON TEESE

Want to Feel like you aren't wearing any lingerie?

Well, 'Real Underwear' has made this possible. For those who don't want to suffer VPL's or want to head straight to the gym after work without packing any extra, then the Fusion 'no show' hipster might be your answer. 

"Their technology means that the underwear doesn't move on the body but moves with it. new technology fuses a thin strip of micro elastic between layers of your favorite fabric, creating an ultra-comfortable long lasting seamless garment".


How to make a high waisted 'brief' pattern

Taking the design from the trend influence, a high waisted panel brief, I drafted out a rough pattern. I always start with the front then move onto the back patterns. Writing roughly the information on the pattern. Information such as how many to cut, the stretch, the piece of the pattern, seam allowance and notches. Even though in many cases the information is the same from pattern to pattern, often you come back to them and can wonder what you were thinking so it's best to write, even roughly, all the information.

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By putting the centre back and centre front straight, you can see the natural curve of the leg and dart shapes that are at the waist. The pattern was drafted out then seam allowance added, then each piece was lain with the seam allowance over lapping to ensure the curves and lengths of the seams were correct.

To make a pattern from scratch, ensure that the front pattern and back measure across the waist the same, so once the brief is made up the side seam sits on the side and doesn't pull to the front or back. You can see on my back pattern at the side that i've had to add to the see as it fell short of the front. Also when I put the side back panel to the back main panel, you can see that the back leg needed to be filled in.

Lying the pattern flat, you can see the natural curve of the waist. By looking at the pattern both ways you can see just by looking at it if there are any glaring problems before you cut any fabrics out. 



Genius! Wear new underwear every day of the year

Do you wish you could wear a new pair of underwear every day.

Well Meundies have made this possible.

Meundies are made from modal, and claim to be the most comfortable pair of briefs you will ever wear.  A US brand, which brings top quality basics for men and women, have put together 365 briefs so that you can buy a year's supply at once, meaning that you'll never have to worry about your washing again. 

Sports bras when breast feeding

There are lingerie designs for almost anything nowadays, so it didn't surprise me when  researching on a personal level, that there are nursing sports bras. Could I just buy my old sports bra style in a bigger size? A style I know that works.

I asked the website Boobydoo more information about this:

Q: Can I wear a normal sports bra whilst breastfeeding?

Boobydo: I realise there is fluctuation of breast size during breast feeding, and you need lots of support, but not too much compression. So maybe an encapsulation style bra might be better for you at this moment. (Compression bras are made from stretch fabric which holds your breasts close to your chest wall to minimise the bounce. Encapsulation bras have separate cups which support your breasts from beneath).

Jubralee Bra

Jubralee Bra

I'd recommend the Jubralee bra which goes up to an E cup.

Shock Absorber N109

Shock Absorber N109



The Shock Absorber N109 which goes up to a 40G

 

 

 

 

 

 

And the Shock Absorber 4490 is a combination of both so you get slight compression plus encapsulation. The size goes up to a 40HH and down to 28 inch back.

Shock Absorber 4490

Shock Absorber 4490

Dear Kate.... We admire Amelia Earhart too...

TheAmelia10dearkate.jpg

When designers mix great designs with function, they immediately have my attention. The Dear Kate brand, caught my attention early this year, and so in awe I was about the brand I ended up Skyping Julie Sygiel (the founder behind the brand). 

TheAmelia8dearkate.jpg

For those who don't know much about the brand, Dear Kate have mixed styling with technology and created lingerie which are leak resistant to save you from those embarrassing moments that may occur in your life at some point. Last week they added to their brand and launched a new collection "The Amelia" which is low rise and is made from silky-soft black microfiber and sumptuous floral lace.

Will the diamanté T-bar thong re-appear?

Looking at the bow back tie of Sonata Lingerie,  takes me back to when Damaris first brought her collection out of 'bum cleavage' briefs. Low cut briefs with a big tie at the top at the back so you could see your bum cleavage.

SONATA LINGERIE

SONATA LINGERIE

I was designing for the high streets at the time they came out, but that didn't stop me mocking up a pair personally to see how they would wear. Though think, black fish net fabric at the back and red non stretch satin at the front (forgive me it was the early Noughties).  

So I looked back through my portfolio to see what I was designing, and for 'Next' it was the diamanté T-bar thong. Each design got more elaborate and we designed, made and shipped that many, that we wondered when the trend would end. But like all trends it eventually does. So the question I suppose is, do you think the trend will ever return to the high street?

T-barnext.jpg
tbarnext2.jpg

"You change your underwear, together we change the world"

Underwear companies that blend great designs and sustainability with social and environmental causes always catch my eye. And PACT underwear has done just that. Not only have they produced eye catching designs but they are made from organic cotton and use ethical manufacturing.
Producing men's, women's and babies underwear in plains and prints, there is a choice for everyone.

PACTUnderwear.jpg

"Good design for good people" 

3D Printing in Lingerie Design

Iris-van-Herpen-3D-printed-fashion-1.jpg

As 3D printing hits the fashion world (it still blows my mind) means that technically you will be able to print your own clothes and wear them. Fashion designer Iris van Herpen has been showing 3D printing in her collections since 2010. 

And although I covered a piece about the 3D printed bikini back in Aug'12 by Continuum, my question is who will the first designer to include 3D printing in their collections? 

Video of SS14 trends and a question that made me think...

After a conversation about trends and fabric sustainability with Gill Gledhill, from Premiere Vision - a trend predication company. She raised a question which got me thinking, she asked 'How many items in your wardrobe do you have which you would pass onto your children?' 

With fast fashion now the norm, I have to admit there are not many. Which got me further thinking on then to underwear, how many times have I in the past, bought an item because of the look and not the fit? How many bras do I own yet only wear the selected comfy few? Immersing myself deep within trends each year, my lingerie list of items I adore grows, but with it now grows the urge to take better care of the items I select and to buy the items I only truly love and that fit. But with an insight into future trends and current ones, sometimes the heart does rule the head.

 

 

Are high waists correlated to the Economy?

My first assignment back at uni, (studying for my Masters in International Fashion Management) is to look at trends for SS14.

Trends go further back than just the catwalk. Economists have noticed that the fashion industry has fluctuated along with the stock market, hemlines rising when the economy is thriving, and dropping when it slows or crashes. Known as the hemline index (launched in 1929 by economists George Taylor).

I began to research this, then I got side tracked and began to wonder whether this relates to lingerie, whether there is any truth to high waists mirroring the economy or because I was looking for the trend, I did begin to see more high waisted lingerie and swimwear in the 1930s/50s/70s/90s/2010s.