I started drafting out shapes I liked for Vanjo awhile back and I had so many, and know in reality that I need to keep the brand designs tight, so that meant only going with shapes I know would work and loved.
I have been looking at vintage shapes to gain inspiration (mainly like the ones below) as well as having my mood board (which is all about Freedom) of what I would like Vanjo to portray.
On a personal level I've previously designed cut out briefs with the cut outs going horizontal (usually at the back) but never vertical. Mainly because my side part of my hips are my least favourite part of my body and it feels like I've spent a life time dressing to cover or flatter them. But then you come to realise that if you don't just embrace what you think are flaws that they become bigger that they are, that it may be all in your head?!? I think vertical cut outs can be super cute so here's how I've been designing and re-making the toiles ....
I began playing about with the shape of a high waisted brief shape, and on paper it started out different to how it ended up. There are still minor adjustments that I need to make, so don't know if I'll be sticking with it or not yet.
I made the first ones out of bamboo and straight away just by looking at them I knew I needed to add into the waist. After fitting, the results were that I needed to take 1.5cm out of the front curve of the cut out and the elastic on the leg sat too low. I also thought the waist elastic would also dig in, so made the waist wider and highered the briefs by 1.5cm.
The second pair were made out of a swan print cotton/elastane fabric but the fabric was too light in weight for what I like to use, and for those who follow me on Instagram know I put off making these for ages. After I had cut them out, all the fabric edges started rolling, and I was dismayed that they would be a nightmare to sew. Turns out they were actually alright, only thing I don't like it the white base of fabric you can see on the back. Now I had widened the waist part I thought the legs needed to be the same. I also aletered the pattern so the CF was higher by 2.5cm for them to be high waisted to go over the belly button.
The third toile I am pretty happy by them, however it turns out I actually prefer the high waist brief to come just under the belly button not over. I sewed them together, using fabric that is cotton/elastane (95% cotton 5% elastane). For the next toile I'm taking off the 2.5cm that I added in the last one. I'm also adding 0.5cm to each side of the waist and also shifting the line of the gusset forward as it seems to be sitting back too much.
I'm hoping after the next toile that I'll be happy how it turns out, as I'm yet to decide if they are going to make the collection or not.