Lingerie courses - latest courses at the top

March 2017 courses:


All courses are designed and given by David Morris, short courses can also be custom built for your product and delivered on your site in the UK or worldwide. Please contact him for more information. 

Core Bra, Pattern Cutting & Grading - 6-7th March

This course starts with developing key pattern blocks then restyling, This session will cover wired and non wired bras with an emphasis on core grading.

Plus Fit Bra, Pattern Cutting & Grading - 8-9th March

This focuses on patterns, fit and grading with three current popular styles examined. In this course wire technology is a key feature.

Technical Bra Fitting Course - 10th * March

This fit day includes defining you models correct commercial size and understanding what creates a good or bad fit. It also covers communicating fit corrections to your factories, getting good outcomes from fitting sessions and solving material, sizing pattern and grading issues.

Bodies & Briefs, Pattern Cutting & Grading - 13-14th March

This course starts with basic stretch and rigid blocks. It looks at the European pantie fit as the favoured choice of retailers and the demand for fashion bodies.

brief grading

Swimwear, Pattern Cutting & Grading - 15-16th March

The swimwear course covers core and plus fit styles from basics through to complex bikinis, suits and tankinis and their grading.

Menswear Size Grading 28th * March

This course is new and will cover commercial grade rules, how grades are applied to patterns, along with specification sheets and tolerances, and how grade rules apply to garment fits

Each Course Listed is £250 and the one day course is £125. If you wish to book for want more information please head to iatechnical and click on the book now button to secure your place.



Starting this Summer and with some running throughout the year, the London College of Fashion are offering some awesome courses

1.STRUCTURED BRA MAKING: Simplifying the mystery of bra making, you'll learn how to cut out and construct a series of structured bras. These will include: a non-wired full cup bra, an under-wired padded bra and a non-padded darted bra. 

The first course starts on 22nd August and three more are available until April with one running just on Saturdays. It's £575 and I would recommend that you are at Intermediate level.

2. BRA PATTERN CUTTING: This course introduces you to the specialised area of bra pattern cutting delivered from our dedicated contour department at Curtain Road. You’ll start by investigating different shapes of bras, looking at seam/wire types and fabric suitability.

There's two available dates 1st August and in December at £575, being at an intermediate level is recommended. You can also check out the following:

3, LINGERIE DESIGN: Design your own collection.

4. LINGERIE MAKING: Construct five different non-stretch lingerie pieces.

5. LINGERIE PATTERN CUTTING: Introduction to skills you need to produce patterns for soft lingerie.

6. BRA GRADING: Introducing the principals of grading a bra.

7. STARTING YOUR OWN LINGERIE LABEL: You'll be guided step-by-step through all elements of a business start up.


Distance learning Core bra pattern cutting & grading course

After the successful release of the first edition of the "Distance Learning Core Bra Pattern Cutting & Grading Course (The Package.)"  Perfect for those of you unable to attend the two day course that runs.

THERE WILL BE A the second release which will be the "Plus Fit Bra Pattern Cutting & Grading Course." These courses are based on the extended version of the 2 day courses that David Morris teaches from the Innovation Centre at De Monfort University in Leicester.


Course Content brochure will be sent to those interested and will include:


1. Plus fit Bodyshape

2. The engineering of Plus Fit bra shape

3. Drafting the 32F Wired Block

4. Plus fit Fabrics, Wire grading & components

5. Plus fit grading rules

6. Drafting the 32F Soft Bra Block

7. Styling Project 1 - Drafting and modifying 32F Plus fit Soft Bras

8. Construction process

9. Styling Project 2 - Drafting and modifying a classic Plus fit Soft Bra

10. Plus fit Soft Bra grading rules

11. Overview of Plus fit styles

12. Construction process

13. Styling Project 3 - Drafting the 34GG Bra

14. Styling Project 3 - Darted 36 GG Bra

15. Fitting Plus Fit Bras

16. Using Adobe illustrator to draft plus fit bra patterns

17. Further Plus fit grading methods

Titles to follow on from this course are:

Sports Bra Pattern Cutting & Grading. 

Moulded Bra Pattern Cutting & Grading.


This package and the following courses cost £200 each.

One on one Tutor support will be made available through Skype (If required.)

A closed Facebook group has been set up for this course. This can be used as a central resource point for the course and a place to communicate with all other students that are currently working through the course

If you are interested please contact Dave Morris by email at and we will be able to send you all the information about Distance Learning and this course.   click here for the website.

Would love to hear how you get on.




How to sew a high waisted brief

If you have been following the 'Creating SS15 collection' then this is one of the collection pieces being made. We have gone from mood boards, sketches, working drawings and patterns, Now the pieces of fabric have been cut and sewn. I have sewn the brief on a standard sewing machine - just because it's what most people will have to start out.

All the components and fabric cut ready to go.

All the components and fabric cut ready to go.

A reminder of the shape of the brief:

The legs and waist will have fold over elastic, which is as it sounds, elastic that fold over the front of the fabric and back, it's great for creating a clean finish. Also as I am only using a sewing machine and not an overlocker, I have to think about the internal seams. Traditionally french seams are used on delicate fabric to enclose your raw edge. If you are planning to use a french seam remember to add the seam allowance into the pattern. As I am wanting to create a control brief look, I'm going to make the seams a detail, so have bias cut binding in which I am going to enclose the seam, then turn to the side and sew down so it looks like the seam has been taped.

To begin with I always create the front panel, if you always follow a structure of your sewing it's easier to keep track if you have many pieces.

sewing the side seams


Once the side seams are attached, next the gusset is sewn on. If you're making your briefs on a domestic sewing machine only and no overlocker, then have the  gusset in two pieces the outer gusset which is part of the front and the inner gusset which is the gusset part, this means that you can hide, both the front and back seam.

Shown in the picture, the top layer of fabric is the front of the brief, the second layer is the back of the brief, and the bottom is the gusset.



To create the hidden gusset seam, you need to twist the inner gusset and sew to the back gusset, so when straightened the gusset lies flat and seam is hidden.

Next sew the back side seams like the front and then the whole brief is complete. I usually sew the full brief first then apply the elastics and over lap the ends and then sew down the overlap of the elastic to secure. 

The elastic to the legs and waist are attached by x/stitch, starting at the back seam. See finished brief below.




Having sketched out the pattern freehand, there are usually alterations to make after the first toile. What i would change for the next fit and toile, would be lighter elastic, the elastic was too strong for the legs, you can see this on the back brief picture just up from the gusset, as they are not lying completely flat. Also because the elastic is quite heavy you can see the join. 

Having tried them on, I would take 3 cm off the back side panel and add it to the back centre panel. This will allow for a better stretch around the body, and will have better hanger appeal, as the front seam will then be in line with the back seam.