your questions that I answer: How do i design without ripping off other designers.

February 14th: How do I design without feeling like I'm ripping off other designers?

Q I Found your website this evening and yay it is just what I needed! I've only recently started getting into making my own lingerie and I feel like I've finally found my passion. I'm very keen to work on my own designs but have one question that I continually return to (one for #transformationtuesday maybe?).  Designing something like a bra or knickers is not exactly reinventing the wheel so how do you go about doing this without feeling as though you're ripping off someone else's design. Essentially there are only so many ways you can make a bra for example??!!

Hope you can help. Ordering a book this week - would you suggest the How to Become a Lingerie Designer as first port of call?

A: Okay in answer to your question: You don't have to re-invent the wheel, unless you are planning to bring a new concept to lingerie, and lets be honest it's not changed a lot in the past decades of years. But then so hasn't a lot of clothing apparel. I would start by setting up a private Pinterest board and add lingerie designs that inspire you every day, and by the end of a couple of weeks if you have a look back you should be able to see a style of what you want to design - your style. 

Look at all the strappy bras and briefs there are about at the moment, I'm even working on a pattern for one. There are many about but there are still so many changes you can do - fabrics: mesh, lace, bamboo, cotton, lycra, and colours, prints, placement of straps, sizing of bras etc.

When I had Vanjo I concentrated of a two piece cup for the bigger boobed , smalled backed ladies, but there is lots of companies and brands that use the three piece cup shape, the exact same shape yet they all look different because they have a strong brand look. Take a look at for example Freya, Miss Mandalay, Love Claudette and Curvy Kate - all of these use the same/similar shape, obviously the fits will be different as each fits to their brand, but just by looking at them you will be able to see that they are completely different.  The picture shown is the final collection of Vanjo which was my take on the three piece cup.

how do i deisgn without feeling like i'm ripping off other designers

Once you start designing you may find that your style naturally changes as you go on, you may start being inspired by certain designers, then find your own rhythm of what works for you, but only by trial and error of starting will you reach that. 

Also I think you'll know when you start to design whether you're ripping off someones else's design off, you'll feel it, you'll know.

In answer to your second question, I'd order,"how to become a lingerie designer" it covers this topic and the gives an overview of a lot of concepts to do with lingerie design.

Hope that helps.

(and yup your question is about to go on transformational tuesday)



January 16th: Where do i start?

This weeks #transformationtuesday is a question that I think hounds us all.

Q: Hellllpppppp me! For the past year or so I have been researching designing and starting my own line, but I still don't know where to start? I have so many ideas, I want to design for the bigger sized market, design sports bras and have ideas for maternity wear. Which do I do first? Where do I start? It feels like I start then change direction and get nothing done. Any advice would be great Arrggghhhh so many questions I would like to ask you.

A: Firstly, this problem is very common. I know I have many a half finished project, or designs that didn't make the cut. Sometimes you have to work through what doesn't work to see what does. That said I think you need to narrow down your designs, leave wanting to cater to everyone to the big companies, they have the money and can hire many designers for each area of expertise. So in which area does your passion or skills arise? I think you need to sit down and work out your customer, and your unique selling point, also by doing this when you approach people about your brand or if they find you , you have a strong brand from the outset. Also make a list of what you need to learn or can do. Do you want to make and sew your own lingerie? If so do you have the skills you need, if not what is your next step? By breaking everything down it should give you a clear picture of your strengths and weaknesses. I would also suggest setting up a private pinterest board, begin every night adding lingerie and non lingerie images that you like then after say a week or so, look at the board on a whole and you should see a theme. This is the direction of your brand or theme of your designs. Are you images bright or muted colours? Try to see a link between them all. By placing everything in one place should keep you on the right track when you begin to want to wander on to the next thing. Lastly when you find something that is not working, question why. By looking back on what doesn't work will allow you to move on to what does. 


December 13th: How can I become a lingerie designer with no experience?

#transformationtuesday to getting you one step closer to becoming a designer. Todays question: You blog has given me inspiration, zeal and motivation to go ahead with improving myself and learning new things. But i have a little problem. My friend and I want to start our own lingerie brand but we have no design experience whatsoever. My question is how can become a lingerie designer and own my own brand when I have no design experience? is it possible at all?

can I become a lingerie designer with no previous experience

Answer: This is the most common question I must get asked. Yes it is possible to become a lingerie designer without any prior lingerie design knowledge, there are lingerie companies out there who have successful lingerie brands, it just takes a lot more time. "Negative Underwear" took four years working on their brand whilst they had other jobs, neither had lingerie design experience before they started they just wanted to offer ladies sleek lingerie wasn't over the top with frills. I think the most important thing is to get a strong brand together to start. What are you offering? I started Vanjo with the niche of catering for women who had small backs and big boobs, mainly in bright Liberty prints and colours that at the time weren't being offered to women. Next thing would be to work out what you want to outsource and what you want to do yourself, if you don't plan to sew them yourself then you need to look for a sample machinist/factory. Do you need your drawings drawn up? Graded? etc. Once you know which direction you want to go in it's easier to start to move in that direction.

*Transformation Tuesday is published every week on Instagram. if you have a question please email me. laurie@howtobecomealingeriedesigner.com or use the contact form on the 'my story' page.

 

Interview with ... WELL ME!

This original took place with Esty Lingerie, interviewing me from a freelance lingerie designer perspective. Here is a copy of it.

EL:You studied Contour at DeMontfort University so I imagine you knew from the start that you wanted to design intimates. What drew you to lingerie over other areas of fashion design?

LVJ:When I was leaving school I had secured a place at Loughborough Art college, as I didn't really know what direction I wanted to head in, I loved altering clothes (my poor wardrobe didn't survive my love of using scissors and re-sewing/re-hashing garments back to together)  and playing around with fabrics and I toyed with getting into fashion but at 18 yrs old, the industry intimidated me a little and I didn't view myself as fashionable and the clothes I tried to make, I never had enough floor space to cut them out or ended up spending so much on fabric for the garment not to turn out right. 

lingerie interview with laurie van jonsson

The Spring before I left school I saw a programme about lingerie design and knew that was what I wanted to do, I loved the way that you change the whole way you could feel just by garments that no-one else saw. I also liked the idea that it wasn't just about designing pretty lingerie it was about how it fitted as well. I loved the technical aspect side of things. I ended up writing a letter to Demontfort and found out you could do a late entry application and it would be on a points based system to get in not on a portfolio viewing or interview which was a good thing as when I told my art/sewing teacher I was changing my mind and going to Demontfort University she told me it was a bad idea as my sewing was awful and I didn't know anything about the industry - she was right but that didn't stop me.

 

EL: Would you recommend the same course for other hopeful lingerie designers?

LVJ: Yes. Although I don't think it's necessary to do a degree, a degree gives you the space to try out new ideas, have the resources to use and the time to gain knowledge from people who have worked previous in the industry. It also gives youth chance to build up your portfolio.

What I also think it does which is important is give you a time structure for when to complete things. If you don't have the money to do a degree then you should plan out your time to get things done, how many of us have dreamed about a new career and realised that a couple of years have passed from having the original idea of a career change. Although I don't think you always need a degree, I do think that some sort of course is helpful, like making patterns as it will save you time in the long run and working out everything yourself can be very time consuming and disheartening if you're not getting it right.

 

EL:I'm sure some people think lingerie designers just sit around drawing pretty pictures of bras all day, but more goes into it than that! For those wondering if lingerie design is the right career path for them, what can they expect to be doing exactly once they land a job?

LVJ: Drawing/planning out next seasons range including trend boards is such a small part of being a lingerie designer, your day is spent juggling future seasons, getting them sampled up, getting them fitted, altering the patterns, going for second fits etc... Costing the garment, going back and forth with the buyer and factory to settle on a cost, altering a design so it fits the cost. Then you're juggling with the orders that are to be delivered, making sure they are on time, and sorting out everything when it goes wrong, deliveries late, wrong fabrics, different fits from the first sample, wrong shade of components to the one that was chose. A buyer changing their mind over a colour. With everything moving so fast and in some cases with a three month turn around you do spend a long time on your time-line spread sheet making sure everything is where it needs to be, you need to be able to build good relationships with the buyer you're working with and the factories. Some mornings I would get to work and there would be 50+ emails waiting for me to be answered, you need to be able to make decisions quickly and have a good organisation system.

 

EL:Is there anything that's surprised you, that you didn't know would be part of the role of a lingerie designer?

LVJ: When I started out it was quite easy to move between positions, i.e. designer to grader to account manager, but nowadays it seems rarer to be able to do that, also I found it near impossible as an employee to switch between different styles of being a designer. For example my roles have been mainly supplier based - which means the company you work is an independent company and provides lingerie to different shops/brands etc. So you're not working for just one company, so if I've ever applied for a job opening of working for just one brand the feedback I've had received is that I've not the experience of being dedicated to working for one brand, also having been mainly designing high street has meant that applying for designer lingerie brands hasn't been successful. Working though as a freelancer has worked opposite, my CV shows that I can design in a multitude of styles so this has opened doors for different companies. So if you are planning to be a designer for a certain area of lingerie it's best to try and secure that area near the start of your career as it's hard to near impossible to change it later unless you freelance.

 

EL:Having worked both in house and freelance, how do the two differ in terms of a typical working day, regularity of work/income, responsibilities  etc.

LVJ: In house you have the security of a wage, but the higher you progress the more you delegate the work so you're responsible for a lot more as you're seeing everything from start to finish season after season, where as freelance you may be bought in for just one section or one season.  In House you're working hours are regular, you have your nights free and you;re weekend, where as freelance it's more of a balancing act. I like freelance as you seem to work on lots of different work, my main clients employ me usually for the technical side, they have the design already done and I work out their spec sheets, write up their tech packs, draw up their designs, attend fit sessions etc. 

I have two small children at the minute so freelance works perfectly, although in house I earned far more (peaking at 45K+) freelance allows me to have flexibility to look after both of them and still work. I also have more creativity satisfaction working freelance.

 

EL: You also had your own lingerie brand, Vanjo, from 2005 to 2009. Have you preferred running your own brand or designing for other companies, and why?

LVJ: Having my own brand was amazing, I don't think I realised how well I was doing at the time, I was the first independent brand to be stocked by Topshop  that provided bras above a DD cup. But having worked in the industry prior, at the the time I always thought I should be doing more, I was so use to the fast paced fashion side of things, it was a bit of a shock to be the one doing everything and the time it took to do it all. Having your own brand though you are responsible for everything, one thing I did miss was other people, but when people wrote to me saying how much they loved my brand and how it fitted it did make it all worth while. I did learn a lot doing it all myself, and would definitely do it again. 

 

EL: Obviously, to become a lingerie designer you need a certain amount of knowledge about how bras are constructed. Aside from technical expertise though, what do you think it takes to be a successful lingerie designer?

LVJ: Flexibility. Sometimes you have a great design and you have to be prepared to let it go and be altered or criticised. When you design something there are so many people who have their opinion, the buyer, the fitter, the sample machinist, the factory even your boss who may not have any knowledge about designing!! You need to pick the best advice and be prepared to alter your design, or be prepared to state your case why what you designed doesn't need altering. You also need to be always keeping an eye on the market and constantly be knowledgeable about what's going on around you.

Patterns being launched in November

It has been super busy at 'van Jonsson Design' head quarters, for those who don't know How to become a lingerie designer is being updated, and in November the website will contain lingerie patterns which you will be able to buy, and in good measure the website will be having an overhaul as well. So apologies on the sporadic blogs that have been sent out, will hopefully be back on track come December.

Until then here's a peek at one of the patterns: The Betsy.

 

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Difference between bra straps

There are two main methods to attach the bra strap at the back to the wing 'the camisole' and 'the leotard'.

The camisole strap is so called because it has the same attachment used for a camisole. This style of strap has been around and used the longest for lingerie. The straps are sewn at a right angle to the wing at a set point from the hook and eye (usually around 5cm). This style produces a square back shape and can work on all sizes of bras. However when reaching the bigger cup it put a lot stress on the point where it meets the wing, and may cause the wing to pull up especially if the right isn't being worn.

The leotard strap is also know as the 'U' back, unlike the camisole the leotard strap has a round look and lo and behold gains it name from looking similar to a leotard. It's mainly used for the larger cup as the wings need to be wider to support the larger cups. The leotard strap is sewn along the back curve of the wing which means that the weight of the breast is distributed evenly throughout the underband, and takes the weight out of the straps. One of the main problems when designing a bra with the leotard style strap is making the curve shape too wide. If it is too wide then it will cause the straps to fall off the wearer's shoulders. 

For those wishing to know more about the components of lingerie. the book "The Anatomy of a Bra" covers each component of the bra in detail.

 

Make the most of your time

Whether you have to juggle full time work with working on your dream job in your spare time or whether you're juggling work with looking after children, time is something that seems to slip away. Over the years I've found what works for me. A question I got asked recently is how do I fit everything in so I thought I'd share an insight into how I manage it all.

I am a list maker, if i have it written down on paper what I have to do then it's out of my head and then when I get to my desk I know exactly what I have to do.

Usually what stops us is the thought that we'd never finish what we need to do in one sitting. Too often we have a list of projects we need to complete rather than list of tasks. 

After making my list I now break each part down into tasks - a task I class as completing in a certain amount of time - mine is anywhere from 15-25 mins. Before I had distractions (i.e. children) I would just work through each part of the list but give myself only 30 mins which made sure I had to concentrate and just go for it. Nowadays though each part is broken down so when I reach my desk I know exactly what I have to do. I now aim for the completion of at least five things (tasks) on my list which is do-able and makes me feel like I've completed something and moved closer to my goal/dream, even on the days when it feels like I'm getting nowhere. 

For example - if I'm designing a new style of brief and need to make a sample, on my list would be: Make brief sample - a way to break that down would be:

- cut front, cut back, cut gusset, sew gusset in, sew side seam, attach elastic to leg, attach elastic to leg, attach elastic to waist, trim. 

So if you follow the five-a-day task completing, that sample of briefs that you want to make, will be completed in two days, and you've been probably putting it off for weeks. Also by breaking everything down you can see where you either need more help in a certain area, or if you have to complete something else first - like buying elastic.

If you're still having trouble making time, sit down and re-draft where you want to be, by focusing on the end point, it can keep you going when everything seems to be going slowly or wrong! Remember a year will pass whether you are working towards something or not, better to be closer to our dream than stood with just your thoughts of where you want to be.

Below is an example of how my diary looks most weeks. It includes all work for the week, personal things I need to complete and also the time in which I spend on clients work.

make the most of your time

Lingerie courses - latest courses at the top

March 2017 courses:

DEMONTFORT UNIVERSITY CAMPUS AT THE INNOVATION CENTRE IN LEICESTER IN THE UK

All courses are designed and given by David Morris, short courses can also be custom built for your product and delivered on your site in the UK or worldwide. Please contact him for more information. 

Core Bra, Pattern Cutting & Grading - 6-7th March

This course starts with developing key pattern blocks then restyling, This session will cover wired and non wired bras with an emphasis on core grading.

Plus Fit Bra, Pattern Cutting & Grading - 8-9th March

This focuses on patterns, fit and grading with three current popular styles examined. In this course wire technology is a key feature.

Technical Bra Fitting Course - 10th * March

This fit day includes defining you models correct commercial size and understanding what creates a good or bad fit. It also covers communicating fit corrections to your factories, getting good outcomes from fitting sessions and solving material, sizing pattern and grading issues.

Bodies & Briefs, Pattern Cutting & Grading - 13-14th March

This course starts with basic stretch and rigid blocks. It looks at the European pantie fit as the favoured choice of retailers and the demand for fashion bodies.

brief grading

Swimwear, Pattern Cutting & Grading - 15-16th March

The swimwear course covers core and plus fit styles from basics through to complex bikinis, suits and tankinis and their grading.

Menswear Size Grading 28th * March

This course is new and will cover commercial grade rules, how grades are applied to patterns, along with specification sheets and tolerances, and how grade rules apply to garment fits

Each Course Listed is £250 and the one day course is £125. If you wish to book for want more information please head to iatechnical and click on the book now button to secure your place.

 

LINGERIE COURSES AT THE LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION IN THE UK

Starting this Summer and with some running throughout the year, the London College of Fashion are offering some awesome courses

1.STRUCTURED BRA MAKING: Simplifying the mystery of bra making, you'll learn how to cut out and construct a series of structured bras. These will include: a non-wired full cup bra, an under-wired padded bra and a non-padded darted bra. 

The first course starts on 22nd August and three more are available until April with one running just on Saturdays. It's £575 and I would recommend that you are at Intermediate level.

2. BRA PATTERN CUTTING: This course introduces you to the specialised area of bra pattern cutting delivered from our dedicated contour department at Curtain Road. You’ll start by investigating different shapes of bras, looking at seam/wire types and fabric suitability.

There's two available dates 1st August and in December at £575, being at an intermediate level is recommended. You can also check out the following:

3, LINGERIE DESIGN: Design your own collection.

4. LINGERIE MAKING: Construct five different non-stretch lingerie pieces.

5. LINGERIE PATTERN CUTTING: Introduction to skills you need to produce patterns for soft lingerie.

6. BRA GRADING: Introducing the principals of grading a bra.

7. STARTING YOUR OWN LINGERIE LABEL: You'll be guided step-by-step through all elements of a business start up.

 

START your lingerie label - use the resources you have

A tidy up around the office led me to find the first copy of the book "How to become a Lingerie Designer" and let me remember how far I had come with this business, and how it all started, telling people that I was going to write a book before I had even attempted or started it.

I think that we all need to be reminded that sometimes you need to remember you have all the resources to need to start. If you are waiting for your life to be less busy, have more money, more time, better ideas or more experience then you are forever going to be waiting. It's been seven years from when I first started to write "How to become a Lingerie Designer" and if I had of waited for conditions to be right then I would have just been seven years older. Full stop.

The truth is there is never enough time and the timing will never be right. Fact. You never see what goes on behind someone's creation of their work, you just see a finished product and wish you had the resources to be where they are. Well you do.

Use the resources you already have

I had the idea for the book for 2009 and it took me three years of writing, re-writing it, and questioning myself over it. Working in a non lingerie based job and writing before or after work. 2012 came around and I got sponsorship to move to Melbourne, Australia to lingerie design, so new country, new work, shock to the system about my lack of internet where I lived, but I managed to finish the book. Now what? Keep going. Yes it's hard, yes you may want to stop, yes you may question it all and problems will occur that you think you don't know how to solve but remember....

Use the resources you already have

when designing use the resources you have

For example: I needed a front cover and didn't really know anyone enough in Australia to design me one - so I used a model shot I had previously done from my label and the wording - well in all honestly there are fridge magnets, I wrote "How to become a Lingerie Designer" on the fridge, took a picture and then used photoshop.  Not the idea I had in mind when I first started the book, but since then I've been able to get the book re-drafted, and have a new shiny front cover which is more in line of the ethos of the brand and far more professional, but if I hadn't have started and kept going, I would never have been able to update, re-brand and write more books, I would have just been looking for more time, more money and more ideas to write the first. 

Your lingerie label that you keep wanting to start, will always be in the future if you don't simply don't start it, be that either ordering fabrics, practising sewing, or attempting to make a pattern. It's easier to keep things moving than it is to start, so if you start tonight - well you've done the hard part.

*How to become a lingerie designer"  book available here