Last month on my facebook and Instagram page I wrote about the difference between bra backs of the camisole (straps that go into the wing) and leotard (straps that curve along the wing into the hook and eye).
From this I got a request about how to change a camisole back into a leotard back, so I thought I’d show you both ways to alter the backs of the wings. Starting with the easiest first.
ALTERING A LEOTARD WING TO CAMISOLE WING
Draw around the wing pattern. I am making the new wing pattern with a 30mm hook and eye, so first mark 6mm up (thats the seam allowance) to know where the hook and eye start. Then mark 30mm up from that line, then mark 6mm again. That is the width of your new pattern at the hook and eye point.
2. Next draw a line across from the hook and eye (see red lines) and draw a line joining the top of your hook and eye to the top of the wing.
In-between these lines draw a curved line, it needs to be curved for the elastic not to bag out as it goes around the back of your body.
3. Shade off the areas you don’t need. And you will be left with a new camisole wing pattern.
ALTERING A CAMISOLE BACK WING TO LEOTARD
Draw around a camisole wing pattern.
2. Mark 5cm from the hook and eye, this is where the strap will end up. At the hook and eye, mark 6mm up to see where the hook and eye will start and mark down from the pattern edge taking off the 6mm seam allowance, then mark a further 3mm down, this will allow for the attachment of the elastic that will go into the hook and eye.
Mark 1.5cm up from the 5cm mark and draw a line from the top of the wing.
Draw a curve from the hook and eye to the point where the 1.5cm is.
Draw a curve from the 1.5cm mark to the top of the wing.
Shade off the areas you don’t need so no to confuse when cutting out, and you will be left with a new wing pattern in the style of leotard back.