How to sew the Betsy brief

If you’ve ever wanted to know how to make your own lingerie but don’t know where to start? The Betsy brief pattern was the first one to be released as this was  my starting point on many patterns. Simple in make-up but can be used with lots of different fabrics to look totally different. A high leg pattern with narrow side seams.

betsy brief pattern
Pattern_betsy brief

First start with sewing the hidden gusset piece, following the steps below. I have also done a detailed post here, if you need more diagrams.


Laying together the right sides of the outer gusset and front panel together with the inner gusset wrong side facing up. Sew together. Finish the edges by sewing close to the straight stitch with a zig-zag stitch if you do not have an overlocker available. Trim excess fabric.
With outer gusset right side up, roll up front piece, then roll up back piece and with wrong side up place on top of outer gusset and then bring inner gusset over both pieces sandwiching them. Then sew back piece and inner and outer gusset together. Pull out front piece and back piece, and with the gusset seams on the inside, sew down the edge of the two gussets together, then trim any threads and fabrics that are sticking out.


You now have two choices, you can attach the elastic to the legs then sew up one side seam, attach the elastic to the waist then sew up the final side seam, or you can sew the side seams together then attach the elastic in a loop. I usually sew the side seams up first, by laying the right sides of the fabrics together and overlocking, if you have no overlocker then zig zag the seams together. Then trim excess.


You have two choices when attaching the elastic, you can sew the elastic one the legs and waist and overlap at the end, ensuring you keep an even tension the whole way around. Or you can sew your elastic in one loop, then pin at the half, and quarter to ensure an even tension. The elastic will be zig zagged on, there is a tutorial here if you need more information or pictures. Lay the elastic at the leg opening with the decorative edge facing in, pull the elastic evenly and attach using a zig-zag stitch. Then turn the attached leg elastic, back on itself underneath, so that on the right side you only see the decorative edge of the elastic. Secure with zig-zag stitch.

The lovely thing is that you can create a number of designs with just one pattern.

betsybrief lingerie pattern
betsy lingerie pattern

For those wishing to buy the Betsy pattern, please tag me on Instagram when sewn #vjdpatterns